Go
Touring Part 1 A feature article
from Dick Henneman. You remember summer?
It’s when the sun comes out (sometimes), the days
are longer (and sometimes warmer), and ventilated leathers
and lightweight gloves have a real use rather than a pose
value. Your pride and joy decimates the local flying insect
population on a regular basis on those weekend blasts
with your mates – but there’s more out there
for you and your bike. So shouldn’t you take the
time to go out and find it? We’re
talking touring here, and before anyone starts going on
about getting out the pipe and slippers, let’s get
rid of a few preconceptions and suppositions. To start
with, touring is not the sole province of old codgers
on Bee-Ems, pillions and riders do not need to have matching
leathers, and you don’t have to own a big fancy
tourer with cruise control, six-speaker CD/radio and a
GPS navigation system. What you do need though is the
desire to get out there, visit places that you haven’t
been to before, ride new roads and have some fresh scenic
experiences. And if you can persuade a few friends to
come along as well, the whole thing can be a two-wheeled
rolling party. But leave behind the
need to do everything at 110%, take the perfect line through
that corner and nail the throttle at every opportunity,
because if you travel like this you’ll be missing
out on one of the best bits of touring – taking
in the countryside and the surroundings. We’re not
talking about pottering along at 40mph here, whilst blowing
smoke rings from a briar pipe, but riding at a brisk enough
speed to enjoy the road while leaving something in reserve
to take in the scenery. And don’t plan to clock
up large distances each day. Leave some time to relax
and see the country that you’re travelling through. Okay, you’re beginning
to get the idea. So the next question is, what sort of
bike should I go touring on? The
answer’s easy – it’s the one that’s
in the garage (with a couple of reservations – more
later), unless you’re one of those really annoyingly
affluent people with a shed full of different bikes. Let’s
face it, you bought your bike because it’s the type
of bike that you want to ride, and if you were able to
wangle a few test rides, it could even be exactly the
bike you always wanted. So if you want to get the maximum
enjoyment out of your touring, why would you want to ride
around on something else? Ah, your pride and joy is an
RGV or an RS250. This could pose problems as it may not
be practical to carry around gallons of synthetic two-stroke
oil and spare sets of barrels and pistons wherever you
go. But you get the idea. Pre-Flight(?)
Checks
Probably the most important requirement of any touring
bike is reliability. You’ve booked two weeks off
work so that you can ride some great roads and see the
sights, and the last thing you want to do is to spend
one of those camped outside some bike workshop waiting
for spare parts to be delivered and fitted – unless of
course you’re one of those ‘adventure motorcyclists’
to whom this is all part of the experience. Hmm? Let’s
assume to begin with that the bike has been regularly
serviced at the intervals recommended by the manufacturer.
What do you mean – you can’t find the service book?
Ah, there it is. The next thing to do is to cross check
the current mileage against the distance you expect to
cover and the miles left to the next service interval.
If it looks as though it will be well past the time for
a service by the time that you get back, then maybe you
should think about carrying out the service before you
go – or get your dealer to do it. But
whatever you do, it’s worthwhile carrying out the
following checks before you set off. - What’s the condition of the
tyres? Is there enough rubber on them to last the trip?
If it looks as though you might end up running on canvas
by the time you get back, fit new ones before you go
but keep the old covers – you can refit them later and
wear them out on a number of shorter trips. This is
especially important if you’re going touring outside
the UK. Overseas, you’re probably going to have
more trouble finding a suitable tyre supplier than at
home. - Give the bearings on the headraces,
wheels and swing arm a good going over. If there’s
any play or binding in any of the bearings check it
out and get it sorted before you leave. You don’t
want the bike wobbling all over the place when you’re
negotiating a mountain pass (unless of course you ride
like that anyway!). - Check the brake pads and discs,
front and rear. They’re going to get a fair bit
of punishment during the trip, so if the pads are more
than half worn, get new ones and either fit them before
you go or take them with you. Also check the operation
of the brakes. If there’s any sponginess, they
should be bled, and if the fluid’s more than two
years old it’s probably a good idea to change
it. Replacing the original rubber lines for braided
Goodrich or Aeroquip type can rejuvenate your braking
system. - Check all the control cables (throttle/choke/clutch)
for smooth operation. If there’s any sticking
or stiffness, then they probably need lubricating. This
can be done with something like WD40, or better still
use a cable oiler. If the problem persists, then the
cable may be damaged and should be replaced before you
go. Alternatively, take a spare cable and tape it in
place alongside the existing one. - Check the condition of the chain
and sprockets. If there are any stiff links or the chain
has passed its stretch limit or the sprockets are hooked,
replace the lot. - Check the cooling system. If you’re
going abroad then hopefully it’s going to be much
warmer in summer than in the UK, and you’ll be
working the bike fairly hard, so you don’t want
it to overheat. There should be no signs of any leaks
and the rubber hoses should be in good condition. Any
that show surface cracks when you pinch them should
be replaced. Also make sure that all hose clips are
tight. They can loosen over time as the hose beneath
them compresses and hardens. If your bike is air or
oil cooled then you’ve wasted you time reading
this bit! - Check the oil level and top up to
“Max” if necessary. - Finally, make sure that all fasteners
are secure and all the lights are working. One point
on the subject of lights if you’re going to the
continent; if your bike has an asymmetric dip beam,
i.e., illuminates the kerb better than the cats eyes
down the middle of the road, you should think about
fitting a beam deflector that you can buy in car accessory
shops, to the headlamp glass. This applies to most Triumphs,
BMWs, Ducatis and other bikes of European origin. It
will not only make for easier driving at night, but
will also stop your lights dazzling oncoming traffic
– who will sometimes return the compliment. Nearly
all Japanese bikes have a symmetrical dip beam that
doesn’t need modifying. You
might also want to consider putting together a “spares”
package to take with you. This could include such things
as a small 1litre can of engine oil, a spark plug, a few
fuses, some electrical tape and any other small items
that you consider useful.
Unless you’re one of those people who go travelling
with only a toothbrush and a credit card, you’ll
also need some means of carrying a change of clothes and
other useful “knick-knacks”. The choice is
basically between hard and soft luggage and each has its
advantages and disadvantages. Whichever you decide to
use, make sure that it’s properly secured to the
bike and so avoid the distressing sight of your underwear
being run over by following traffic. A tankbag with a
map pocket will also be useful.
Well, that’s the bike sorted – so where are
you going to go? Destination
. . . Where?
Say
“bike touring” and somehow you automatically
think of crossing the Channel and heading off for a continental
blast, but there’s also a lot of the UK that’s
worth exploring. Which bit will largely depend on where
you live, as most of us wouldn’t be particularly
keen on taking a holiday in our own back yard. And if
you haven’t tried touring yet, there’s a lot
to be said for staying on familiar home ground for the
first time round. If it all goes pear-shaped for whatever
reason, then getting back to base and summoning support
services is going to be a lot easier here, than say in
Italy for instance – unless of course you’re
an ex-patriate Italian! We’ll be looking
at specific destinations in later editions of MotorBikesToday
so come back and read Part 2 next week. dick
|
Essential tips for planning successful motorcycle trips
Get yours here!
Go
Touring Part 1
A feature article
from Dick Henneman.
You remember summer?
It’s when the sun comes out (sometimes), the days
are longer (and sometimes warmer), and ventilated leathers
and lightweight gloves have a real use rather than a pose
value. Your pride and joy decimates the local flying insect
population on a regular basis on those weekend blasts
with your mates – but there’s more out there
for you and your bike. So shouldn’t you take the
time to go out and find it?
We’re
talking touring here, and before anyone starts going on
about getting out the pipe and slippers, let’s get
rid of a few preconceptions and suppositions. To start
with, touring is not the sole province of old codgers
on Bee-Ems, pillions and riders do not need to have matching
leathers, and you don’t have to own a big fancy
tourer with cruise control, six-speaker CD/radio and a
GPS navigation system. What you do need though is the
desire to get out there, visit places that you haven’t
been to before, ride new roads and have some fresh scenic
experiences. And if you can persuade a few friends to
come along as well, the whole thing can be a two-wheeled
rolling party.
But leave behind the
need to do everything at 110%, take the perfect line through
that corner and nail the throttle at every opportunity,
because if you travel like this you’ll be missing
out on one of the best bits of touring – taking
in the countryside and the surroundings. We’re not
talking about pottering along at 40mph here, whilst blowing
smoke rings from a briar pipe, but riding at a brisk enough
speed to enjoy the road while leaving something in reserve
to take in the scenery. And don’t plan to clock
up large distances each day. Leave some time to relax
and see the country that you’re travelling through.
Okay, you’re beginning
to get the idea. So the next question is, what sort of
bike should I go touring on? The
answer’s easy – it’s the one that’s
in the garage (with a couple of reservations – more
later), unless you’re one of those really annoyingly
affluent people with a shed full of different bikes. Let’s
face it, you bought your bike because it’s the type
of bike that you want to ride, and if you were able to
wangle a few test rides, it could even be exactly the
bike you always wanted. So if you want to get the maximum
enjoyment out of your touring, why would you want to ride
around on something else? Ah, your pride and joy is an
RGV or an RS250. This could pose problems as it may not
be practical to carry around gallons of synthetic two-stroke
oil and spare sets of barrels and pistons wherever you
go. But you get the idea.
Pre-Flight(?)
Checks
Probably the most important requirement of any touring
bike is reliability. You’ve booked two weeks off
work so that you can ride some great roads and see the
sights, and the last thing you want to do is to spend
one of those camped outside some bike workshop waiting
for spare parts to be delivered and fitted – unless of
course you’re one of those ‘adventure motorcyclists’
to whom this is all part of the experience. Hmm?
Let’s
assume to begin with that the bike has been regularly
serviced at the intervals recommended by the manufacturer.
What do you mean – you can’t find the service book?
Ah, there it is. The next thing to do is to cross check
the current mileage against the distance you expect to
cover and the miles left to the next service interval.
If it looks as though it will be well past the time for
a service by the time that you get back, then maybe you
should think about carrying out the service before you
go – or get your dealer to do it.
But
whatever you do, it’s worthwhile carrying out the
following checks before you set off.
tyres? Is there enough rubber on them to last the trip?
If it looks as though you might end up running on canvas
by the time you get back, fit new ones before you go
but keep the old covers – you can refit them later and
wear them out on a number of shorter trips. This is
especially important if you’re going touring outside
the UK. Overseas, you’re probably going to have
more trouble finding a suitable tyre supplier than at
home.
wheels and swing arm a good going over. If there’s
any play or binding in any of the bearings check it
out and get it sorted before you leave. You don’t
want the bike wobbling all over the place when you’re
negotiating a mountain pass (unless of course you ride
like that anyway!).
front and rear. They’re going to get a fair bit
of punishment during the trip, so if the pads are more
than half worn, get new ones and either fit them before
you go or take them with you. Also check the operation
of the brakes. If there’s any sponginess, they
should be bled, and if the fluid’s more than two
years old it’s probably a good idea to change
it. Replacing the original rubber lines for braided
Goodrich or Aeroquip type can rejuvenate your braking
system.
for smooth operation. If there’s any sticking
or stiffness, then they probably need lubricating. This
can be done with something like WD40, or better still
use a cable oiler. If the problem persists, then the
cable may be damaged and should be replaced before you
go. Alternatively, take a spare cable and tape it in
place alongside the existing one.
and sprockets. If there are any stiff links or the chain
has passed its stretch limit or the sprockets are hooked,
replace the lot.
going abroad then hopefully it’s going to be much
warmer in summer than in the UK, and you’ll be
working the bike fairly hard, so you don’t want
it to overheat. There should be no signs of any leaks
and the rubber hoses should be in good condition. Any
that show surface cracks when you pinch them should
be replaced. Also make sure that all hose clips are
tight. They can loosen over time as the hose beneath
them compresses and hardens. If your bike is air or
oil cooled then you’ve wasted you time reading
this bit!
“Max” if necessary.
are secure and all the lights are working. One point
on the subject of lights if you’re going to the
continent; if your bike has an asymmetric dip beam,
i.e., illuminates the kerb better than the cats eyes
down the middle of the road, you should think about
fitting a beam deflector that you can buy in car accessory
shops, to the headlamp glass. This applies to most Triumphs,
BMWs, Ducatis and other bikes of European origin. It
will not only make for easier driving at night, but
will also stop your lights dazzling oncoming traffic
– who will sometimes return the compliment. Nearly
all Japanese bikes have a symmetrical dip beam that
doesn’t need modifying.
You
might also want to consider putting together a “spares”
package to take with you. This could include such things
as a small 1litre can of engine oil, a spark plug, a few
fuses, some electrical tape and any other small items
that you consider useful.
Unless you’re one of those people who go travelling
with only a toothbrush and a credit card, you’ll
also need some means of carrying a change of clothes and
other useful “knick-knacks”. The choice is
basically between hard and soft luggage and each has its
advantages and disadvantages. Whichever you decide to
use, make sure that it’s properly secured to the
bike and so avoid the distressing sight of your underwear
being run over by following traffic. A tankbag with a
map pocket will also be useful.
Well, that’s the bike sorted – so where are
you going to go?
Destination
. . . Where?
Say
“bike touring” and somehow you automatically
think of crossing the Channel and heading off for a continental
blast, but there’s also a lot of the UK that’s
worth exploring. Which bit will largely depend on where
you live, as most of us wouldn’t be particularly
keen on taking a holiday in our own back yard. And if
you haven’t tried touring yet, there’s a lot
to be said for staying on familiar home ground for the
first time round. If it all goes pear-shaped for whatever
reason, then getting back to base and summoning support
services is going to be a lot easier here, than say in
Italy for instance – unless of course you’re
an ex-patriate Italian!
We’ll be looking
at specific destinations in later editions of MotorBikesToday
so come back and read Part 2 next week.
dick
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