Motorcycle touring guide part 2: Riding in Wales and essential tips


Is it stolen or written off, does it match the DVLA? Find
out now
.




Waterproofs, route map, traffic? Check it out first



Go
Touring Part 2

A feature article
from Dick Henneman.

Wales
has always been a popular place for motorcyclists, with
great roads and excellent scenery nearly everywhere you
look. However it’s also become a victim of its own
success, with numerous Gatsos and even helicopters being
bought into play to deter the speedy. Add to this its
appeal to families with young children and the caravan
community and you might want to turn round and head straight
back to your garage. But if you did you’d be missing
a lot. In the north there’s the splendour of Snowdonia
and roads that sweep round mountains and plunge down passes.
As you head further south the peaks give way to the rugged
and desolate beauty of the Beacons, an area frequently
used for survival training and not recommended for a breakdown!
South Wales is dominated by narrow valleys that run down
to the southern coastline, and which were once the industrial
heartland of the country. And with the sea on three sides,
you’ve also got a wide variety of seaside attractions
to keep you occupied, if you want. In spite of its obvious
focus on tourism, you don’t have to try too hard
to get away from the crowds. Road access to most of the
country is generally good and there’s a wide variety
of accommodation available, from campsites, through B&Bs
and inns, to hotels and guesthouses in the more popular
resorts.

England,
that (once) green and pleasant land, is probably not at
the top of most lists when it comes to touring, but there
are still large parts of it that are worth a visit. Unfortunately,
most of them support a good deal of tourism during the
summer months, so don’t expect the roads to be deserted.
But the advent of the cheap package holiday has meant
that parts of the country that were once bursting to the
seams with holidaymakers, have largely been abandoned
by the English as they jet off to warmer climes. So things
aren’t all that bad. The south-west has some cracking
roads and scenery and East Anglia and the Fens, although
of pancake flatness, is well worth exploring by bike.
For those who live in the overcrowded south-east, then
heading north to the Peak District and then onwards to
Cumbria, the Lake District and the Northumberland Fells
has a great attraction.

Scotland
has a lot to offer the bike tourer (apart from the midges,
that is!), and although the Highlands is the natural attraction
for all types of tourist, it’s well worth stopping
off to explore the Borders and Lowlands areas. There’s
some excellent riding to be had, good accommodation on
offer, and since this part of the country is mostly ignored
by tourism, things are a lot quieter even at the height
of the season.

North of Stirling you
start getting into the traditional tourist areas, and
although the scenery is spectacular (it’s what they
all come for after all) things can get busy in the high
season. Road are generally good for biking, but they’re
also in short supply so they can get congested at times.
There’s a good variety of accommodation on offer,
but you’ll need to book well in advance for the
summer months. If you plan to include trips to the Western
Isles then you’ll need to allow for the time taken
for the ferry crossings (including waiting).

Ireland
– the Emerald Isle – has a well-justified reputation for
having some very dodgy road surfaces in places, and sportsbike
riders should take note. However, with the recent assistance
of significant amounts of EC funding, a major road improvement
and re-surfacing scheme is underway, so things should
get better – eventually! In the meantime there are
a lot of roadworks around. But this shouldn’t deter
you. The pace of life in Eire doesn’t lend itself
to speeding, so just slow down, relax and enjoy the country,
the scenery, the people and the craic. For the best riding
head west, out towards Connemara, or down to Killarney
in the southwest, and don’t forget the Wicklow Mountains
south of Dublin. And if you time it right, you could even
take in the Skerries races or the North West 200. There’s
a good selection of B&B accommodation in most villages
and towns, and there’s no shortages of bars –
anywhere, although some will be in unexpected places!
But just remember why the countryside is so green, and
make sure you pack your waterproofs.

France
is probably the most popular destination for the first
overseas bike tour, and why not – it’s only
75mins away from Dover by ferry and even quicker by the
tunnel. But it’s a big country so don’t try
to do the whole lot in one trip – pick an area or
region and spend the time touring around it. Around the
Pas de Calais is not the most exciting part, but head
south-west down towards Honfleur, across Normandy and
on to Brittany, and there’s some excellent riding
within easy reach. Or take the ferry to St Malo or Cherbourg
and cut out some of the riding.

Further south, and the
Loire valley and the Dordogne are truly outstanding, but
for some really great scenic riding, the Central Massif
area is hard to beat. The south of the country is always
busy with tourists, and consequently prices are above
the average. But stay away from the coastal areas and
head up into the hills of Provence for the best roads
and cheaper accommodation. Or if you like your hills really
large, then keep heading north-east from here and you’ll
be in the French Alps, but this is one of the most highly
developed tourism areas in the country so it gets a little
busy. Closer to the Channel, the Vosges to the east of
Nancy is good touring country, and you can take in the
Ardennes and Champagne regions en-route.

There’s
a pretty good, but boring network of autoroutes covering
the whole of France, which are worth avoiding unless you
really have to cover big distances in a short time. On
a bike, the “Nacional” routes are far more
interesting and nearly as quick, but for the best riding
many of the smaller “Department” roads take
some beating, and most of them are pretty much deserted.
But just remember that France as a country still goes
on holiday in August, so everything will be busier then,
and some places will shut up shop for the entire month
– including petrol stations.

Spain
for the British has traditionally meant the Costa Brava,
Costa del Sol, package holidays, resort hotel complexes,
discos, fish & chips and lager. But there’s
another part of the country that’s almost untouched,
and it’s only a 24-hour ferry crossing away from
Plymouth or Portsmouth. Northern Spain has been largely
ignored by tourism “development”, and the
bonus for bikers is that the roads are quiet and generally
well-surfaced, and the scenery is stupendous. Add to this
a low cost of living (petrol is around 52p/litre), summer
temperatures in the high 20s/low 30s, and the attractions
become obvious. From the Atlantic coast in the west, through
the central Picos de Europa to the foothills of the Pyrenees
in the east, this is some of the best riding that you
will find anywhere in Europe. There is also a wide range
of accommodation available, from campsites to 4 and 5
hotels, and all at very reasonable prices compared to
their UK equivalents.

Italy
and Germany
are also worthy touring destinations,
but for a first trip the distances can be a bit daunting.
However, we will be looking at them later, along with
the Scandinavian countries of Norway and Sweden, and maybe
even Finland for those who need to be thermally challenged!

A
Little Bit of Planning

– can go a long way. When it comes to setting out touring
on your bike, there are two extremes;
1. Pack toothbrush, credit card and passport in jacket
pocket, full the tank with fuel, point the bike in the
chosen direction – and GO!
2. Research the destination(s), book all accommodation
and ferries, produce detailed road books and day schedules
and have everything organised in advance.
There are proponents of both approaches and there’s
no doubt that the “spontaneous” method can
be a lot of fun – if there are no mishaps and nothing
unforeseen occurs. But real life isn’t like that
too often, so it’s best to at least do some basic
planning. It’s always a good idea to book any ferries
and accommodation in advance if possible, especially if
you’re heading to popular tourist areas in holiday
periods. After a great day’s riding it can be really
annoying to have to spend hours looking for somewhere
to stay, when the time could be more usefully spent propping
up the bar with a cold beer in your hand, or chilling
out by the pool. It beats sleeping in a field alongside
your bike!
Once you’ve decided where you’re going, get
yourself some maps of the area to help you plan your route.
While it’s great to stumble across a wonderful road
with fantastic scenery, a little time spent going over
a map and you could probably have worked out where it
would be, along with quite a few others. If possible get
a map that will give you sufficient detail and will still
fit in the map pocket of your tank bag. This isn’t
easy, as most maps are designed with the motorist or walker
in mind. For the UK, A-to-Z do a very detailed spiral
bound book of maps in A5 format, but the text is small
and not too easy to read on the move. Sheet maps can be
folded to fit a map pocket, but they don’t stand
up to this treatment too well for too long, and soon start
to disintegrate. A better solution is to write out the
key directions of the day’s route in large letters
on one or more sheets of A5 paper, and put these in the
map pocket with the map in the tank bag for detailed consultation
during those moments of temporary location uncertainty.
Try and schedule these for when the views are great or
where there’s a café close by. One thing
that’s worth remembering on the continent, is that
road numbers are not often used on road signs. It’s
more common to see the name of the next city or town,
so bear this in mind when you’re working out your
route.

The series of Michelin
maps are probably the most useful for bikes, and cover
most of Europe at a scale of either 1:200,000 or 1:400,000.
Maps 230 to 245 cover the whole of France, map 923 will
get you the whole of Ireland, maps 441 to 443 cover northern
Spain, maps 428 to 433 cover Italy, maps 415 to 420 cover
Germany, and maps 401 to 404 cover England, Wales and
Scotland. Tuffmaps also do two very useful spiral bound
book maps, one that covers the UK and one for the whole
of western Europe. These have the advantage that the pages
are laminated with thin plastic, which makes them 100%
waterproof and extremely tear-resistant. So no more deciphering
of a papier mache pulp to try and find out where you are!
With the bike sorted and a good idea of where you’re
going to go, you still need to make sure that you’ve
got yourself ready for the trip.

If you’re going
outside the UK, then you’ll need a valid passport
even if you’re visiting EC countries. It’ll
be checked when you leave and arrive back in the UK, but
probably nowhere else. You’ll also need form E111
to ensure that you can claim medical treatment under reciprocal
NHS agreements if you’re taken ill while abroad.
Pick one up from any Post Office, fill it in and get it
stamped before you leave. But as this only gives you access
to basic medical services, you’d be better off also
arranging private medical cover. This isn’t that
expensive, but make sure that it covers using a motorbike
– many don’t. Check with your broker that
you’ve got adequate insurance cover for the bike
itself, and if you’re going to Spain you’ll
also need a bail bond. Take all the relevant documents
including the V5 with you, and carry them at all times,
as if you need to produce them and you can’t, there
could be a big fine, the bike could be impounded and you
might even end up in the slammer.

Finally, Europe-wide
breakdown cover (AA 5-Star, Europ Assist, RAC European,
etc.) is a good idea, as it will get the bike fixed if
things go wrong, and will even get you and bike bought
back to the UK should things get really pear-shaped. If
you’re not going abroad, then it’s still a
good idea to carry all your documents with you –
just to be on the safe side.

Oh yes, don’t
forget your driving licence!

resources
contact

Wales,
Welsh Tourist Board, http://www.tourism.wales.gov.uk –
General tourist info plus an accommodation database.
England,
English Tourist Board, http://www.travelengland.org.uk
– Information on places to visit and a searchable accommodation
database.
Stay on a Farm, http://www.farm-holidays.co.uk – Farm
Accommodation B&B, self-catering
Scotland.
Scottish Tourist Board. http://www.visitscotland.com –
Good source of information, online booking service, brochures
& accommodation.
Highlands & Islands Tourist Board, http://www.visitscottishheartlands.org

Caledonian MacBraine, http://www.calmac.co.uk – Main ferry
operator for the Western Isles. Timetables & bookings.
Ireland,
Irish Tourist Board, http://www.ireland.travel.ie – Good
tourist board site, with places to see and stay. Good
Craic, as they say.
France,
French Tourist Board, http://www.franceguide.com – All
the latest tourist information on the country, along with
accommodation lists.
Chambres et Tables d’Hôtes, Available from
most French bookshops.http://www.gites-de-france.fr –
Lists over 8,000 B&B establishments, from private
houses to chateaux, with details of facilities, rates
and booking information. In French.
Backroads Driving Guide – France. Pub – Duncan
Petersen. Local Bookshop Although aimed at the four-wheel
traveller, it has some useful and interesting routes.
Alistair Sawday’s Special Places to Stay – French
Hotels, Inns & Other Places Local Bookshop A somewhat
up-market directory of places to stay. Most are well off
the beaten track and some are most unusual!
Chateaux & Hotels de France From Keytel International
on 020 7616 0300. A directory of private hotels
The Gite Directory, http://www.thegitedirectory.co.uk
– Holiday properties to rent in France
Spain,
Spanish Tourist Board, http://www.tourspain.co.uk – Excellent
source of tourist info on the country, broken down by
region. Also some do’s and don’ts for wheeled
travellers.
Parador Hotels, http://www.parador.es – Information on
the state-run Parador chain of hotels. In the UK, bookings
and brochures from Keytel International on 020 7616 0300.
General,
Brittany Ferries, http://www.brittany-ferries.com – Details
and online booking for ferries to France and Spain.
P&O Stena Line, http://www.posl.com – Timetable and
online booking for Dover – Calais cross channel
ferries.
Seafrance, http://www.seafrance.com – Timetable and online
booking for Dover – Calais cross channel ferries.
P&O Portsmouth, http://www.poportsmouth.com – Timetable
and online booking for cross channel ferries from Portsmouth.
EuroTunnel. http://www.eurotunnel.com – Timetable and
online booking service for the channel tunnel.
Hoverspeed, http://www.hoverspeed.com – High speed catamaran
service between Newhaven and Dieppe
Stena Line, http://www.stenaline.com – High speed catamaran
service between Holyhead and Dun Loghaire and ferry services
between Stranraer and Belfast and Fishguard and Rosslare
The Rough Guides, Local Bookshop An excellent series of
guidebooks, available for all the above countries, that
provide good, reliable information.
Michelin, http:// www.michelin.com – Map directory and
route planning
Direct Travel Insurance, http://www.direct-travel.co.uk
– Low-cost travel and medical insurance
Matthew Gerrard 01483-730900 Travel insurance
AA 5-Star Travel, http://www.theaa.com – European breakdown
cover
RAC, http://www.rac.co.uk – European breakdown cover
Green Flag, http://www.greenflag.co.uk – European breakdown
cover
Europ Assist, 01444-442038 – European breakdown cover


Return
to Features Index Page